14. There's many ways to remove the troublesome crankshaft bolt. I chose the "blip the starter" method. Position a breaker bar so the handle lies in between the crossmember and driveshaft. Position it to make sure the socket won't slip off and round the crankshaft bolt. You may have to lower or raise the engine to get better positioning. Disconnect the ignitor coil wire, get in your cabin, and blip the throttle. The bolt came loose on my second blip.
15. If you're going to replace the camshaft oil seal, you'll need to get the cam pulley bolt off somehow. There's three ways that I know of to do this.
The first is to buy a SST, or making something similiar to it.
Another is to take the valve cover off. If your valve cover leaks, this would be a good time to change it. To use this method, remove the spark plug wires and remove the nuts that hold the valve cover on. You'll need a 30mm socket or an adjustable wrench. If the cover doesn't come off immediately, strike the side of the cover with a block of wood and a hammer. That should dislodge it. Once the cover is off, you should be able to see an area on the camshaft that allows for a wrench to hold on to. Use your adjustable wrench to hold the cams in place while you unbolt the pulley. Once you're done, cover up the cams so no foreign particles get in.
If you've recently replaced your gasket, like myself, and don't feel like messing with it again, use the laws of physics to your advantage. Jack the engine up, put the car in fifth gear, and set your parking brake. If you have an automatic, you're on your own. I'm not sure what would work with that. Get a breaker bar or couple wrenches and position them like in the picture. Quickly and sternly jerk the wrench. The resistance of the car's compression should be enough to allow the bolt to come loose. Don't remove the pulley or belt yet. I should mention that a valve cover gasket can be reused, but like I said, I didn't want to mess with it again.
16. Lower the engine. Get in your cabin and put the car in neutral. Loosely reinstall the crank bolt, and slowly turn the pulley to TDC. Do so by aligning the mark on the pulley to "0" on the timing cover. If you find it difficult to turn the pulley, you can take out the spark plugs. If you turned the pulley slowly, you should be able to remove the bolt with a breaker bar instead of using the starter again. Use a quick jerk to get the bolt off. The pulley may move a little, but it's ok for now. Loosely thread the crank bolt back in. Set up a 2 jaw puller and a block of wood. The pulley should slide off very easily doing this.
17. Remove the three bolts you can reach on the lower timing cover. Jack the engine up to remove the last one. Take off the cover. Wear gloves as the cover will probably be very greasy.
Yuck. This is why I recommend you replace as many oil seals as possible.
18. I chose to replace the oil pump shaft seal and o-ring. If you plan to as well, lower the engine and remove the pulley bolt by using our cam pulley trick. Remember to set the parking brake and put the car in fifth.
19. Jack the engine up, if needed, and remove the tension spring and then the #1 idler pulley. Remove the timing belt, but don't throw it away yet.
20. Lower the engine and remove the #2 idler pulley, oil pump pulley, timing belt guide, and crank timing pulley.
21. Here's some of what you should have removed so far.
22. If replacing the water pump housing, you'll need to remove the two bolts on the water by-pass pipe. I don't have a good picture of them at this step, but they're tucked under the exhaust manifold. I found that removing the oil filter and thermostat housing freed up lots of space. Removing the exhaust manifold cover helped a little. Prostrate yourself on the back of your car and use a flashlight and 10mm wrench to remove the nuts. Someone suggested using an ignition wrench, but a regular closed-end wrench was fine for me. A ratcheting wrench would have made things much faster.
If you plan on just replacing the water pump face, consult the BGB. I don't know how to do it.
23. Remove the bolts on the face in order of middle, bottom, top. Don't remove the housing yet.
Not draining the engine block of coolant came back to haunt me. It made a slight mess, and my tarp wasn't waterproof (grr). About 1 quart of coolant seeped out.
24. If you're replacing the oil pump seals, remove the bolts attaching the cover to the housing. Take note that the red bolts are different than the green ones. The red ones don't have washers on them whereas the green ones do. If you're wanting to replace the whole oil pump, you'll need to remove the exhaust b-pipe, oil pan, oil pan baffle, and oil pump pick-up. Consult the BGB for details.
25. Pry off the shaft seal with a screwdriver, and pull off the o-ring seal. Take the oppurtunity to clean the pump's cover. Apply a bit of motor oil to the outer ring, and reinstall the shaft seal.
